Alchemy of the Shepherds = Italy's Finest Pecorino

Alchemy. noun. “any magical power or process of transmuting a common substance, usually of little value, into a substance of great value.”



‘‘This creamy, salty oh-so-tasty hunk of cheese comes from those muddy, down to the ground dread-lock sporting sheep over there??’

I guess you can’t judge a book from its cover, nor a cheese from its source.

Shepherds_012 distant sheep.jpg

No fluffy cotton balls of pastoral beauty are these at first glance. Their beauty comes from within. A pasture grazed milk of utter (yes, pun intended) purity and richness. 

The word alchemy isn’t entirely accurate. This “common substance” is never of little value. Just ask the lambs. But the cheese making process is magical and anyone who has had the experience of tasting a warm slice of the soft pecorino fresh out of the cauldron would agree that it is “a substance of great value”.

It starts with a walk. 

A dirt path lined with wildflowers and bright red poppies leads from the village down into a small valley. Green in the spring and sepia toned in the fall. (In summertime it is too hot for milk from the sheep.)  

Shepherds_005 building.jpg

A small hut, old and rustic, sits on the valley floor. Three brothers, shepherds all, have relocated from Sardina to Tuscia for the rolling pastures and perfect grasses. They wait for us with their three sheep dogs. In contrast to their charges, the dogs are pure white, silky smooth and really cute! But make no mistake, these are working dogs and don’t have much time for cuddling. They keep the herd in a group as they graze and protect them at night from any wandering wolf.

 
Shepherd cauldron.jpg

The sheep have been milked that morning and their bounty fills a large steel cauldron heated by a wood fire underneath. The oldest brother, Angelo, stirs the milk with a long wooden paddle, all the while checking the immersed thermometer until the milk reaches the desired temperature and consistency. This is key and crucial. You don’t want it to boil, nor do you want it to be cooler than the optimal temperature for transformation. Not an easy task with a wood fire. 



 
Peppino

Peppino

So he stirs, and we wait. But Angelo is so engaging with his stories and his answers to our questions that time flies by until the milk has turned into a ricotta-like consistency. The middle brother, Peppino, steps in to scoop the ricotta into round tubs designed for the straining and setting of the cheese. (The youngest brother has gone to tend the sheep.) 

 

Time for a tasting!

First a thin still warm slice of cheese straight out of the tub is passed around. Ooh’s and aah’s and eyes-closed mmm’s are the only sounds inside the hut until it is time for a proper tasting. Razor thin slices of prosciutto, newly sliced cheese atop a fresh round of local bread and a glass of cold white wine to enrich the experience and inspire lively conversation. 

The alchemy of the shepherds does not end here. When the ricotta is aged and set it becomes the classic pecorino, one of the oldest cheeses in Italy and a specialty of the region. Saltier than parmesan cheese, pecorino is aged typically from 2 to 12 months. The longer the aging the more intense the flavor. 


Bellies full and taste buds satiated, we walk back to the village over the rolling hills dreaming of our future aged pecorino cheese finely grated over a bowl of pasta. Or sliced with a ripe pear. Or sprinkled as a condiment for a salty taste on a baked potato. Or mixed into breadcrumbs. Or maybe, just a simple slice…



Italian Village Works is proud to work with Tuscia Trekking Experience to host the Shepherds Walk Experience.